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I contemplated my forthcoming Iron Donkey bicycle tour with mixed
emotions. I was looking forward to the freedom of cycling amongst
the breathtakingly beautiful surroundings of the Tuscan landscape
whilst at the same time feeling slightly apprehensive about my ability
to meet the physical challenge. As it transpired, I needn’t
have worried.
I flew to Pisa and took the opportunity to spend a couple of days
enjoying the cultural and historical sights of Florence before joining
the bicycle tour. The journey from Pisa to Florence was a simple
one hour trip by airport bus. The first assault on my thighs began
when I climbed the 460 steps to the top of Brunelleschi's enormous
dome of the cathedral. The magnificent views across Florence from
the top were definitely worth the effort.
From Florence I took the train to Arrezzo (one hour, 7 Euros) which
was the meeting point for the tour. The other cyclists in the group
turned out to be a diverse and interesting group of people from
various parts of the globe. There were a few seasoned cyclists,
whilst others, like me, were relatively new to the cycle touring
experience. There were couples, singles and friends. They turned
out to be a friendly and supportive group of people with the common
aim of spending a week enjoying the magnificent surroundings of
the Tuscan countryside in the best possible way - on a bicycle!
After loading the luggage onto the coach we were given a short
walking tour around the beautiful town of Arezzo where we sampled
some local cheeses, salamis, hams and bread from a small market
stall in the town before taking the coach ride to Monte San Savino.
On arrival, we checked into our hotel and were then fitted with
our bicycles and equipment and given an initial briefing by our
fabulous tour guides, Giovanni and Luca. These two were exceptional!
Firstly they knew the region intimately, they really knew the best
restaurants (often off the beaten track) and they knew the best
locations, the most beautiful vistas and the best local wines. Secondly
they were genuinely passionate about what they were doing; they
were passionate about the region in which they lived and its rich
cultural heritage and they were passionate about the food and wine
and eager to share their knowledge with unremitting patience and
enthusiasm.
The bicycles were top quality, Cannondale hybrids with a choice
of dropped or straight handlebars. Each bike came with a useful
handlebar bag with a map case for our route notes and directions.
By the end of the week I had  become
quite attached to my bike and would have liked to have taken it
home with me.
Each morning of the tour, after feasting on a typical (and substantial!)
Italian breakfast, the guides outlined the cycling routes for the
day. There was always the offer of ‘the shorter route’
or ‘the longer route’. I usually gritted my teeth and
went for the long route, although different people in the group
chose different options from one day to the next. All of the routes
were spectacularly beautiful on roads and paths that carried very
little traffic. I soon learned that ‘undulating’, in
cycle touring speak, is a euphemism for ‘hilly’! However,
every uphill pull was invariably followed by an exhilarating downhill
‘freefall’ to take your breath away (or to recover it!).
There were also long, relatively flat stretches when I could take
in the scenery and enjoy the sunshine. There was usually a restful
coffee break in some Italian village late morning and a further
stop for a light lunch. Some days the lunch stop was a picnic, consisting
of local fare purchased in one of the small shops or supermarkets.
On other days we would lunch at a small Italian café, basking
in the sunshine and enjoying freshly made paninis and a glass of
the local vino rosso.
The hotels in which we stayed were all extremely comfortable and
tasteful, usually in ancient buildings which oozed a sense of history
and culture. They were located in typical Etruscan hill top villages
which crowned the rolling landscape. The villages offered panoramic
views of olive groves and vineyards or fields of sunflowers. These
vistas have been immortalised in the works of some of the worlds’
greatest artists (as well as in films such as The Gladiator and
Under the Tuscan Sun). The final climb to our destination was always
rewarded by a well earned glass of beer.
The tour guides had selected some fantastic local restaurants for
our evening meal. Tuscans take their food very seriously and the
delicious dinners included fresh local produce, lovingly prepared.
There was always plenty of it! The restaurants offered a good selection
of the best local wines – wines for which the Tuscan region
is justifiably famous. Several of the group purchased cases of their
favourite vintages along the way.
The final day’s cycling was relatively short – although
equally as spectacular – and gave everyone the opportunity
to indulge in a spot of retail therapy. No chains or multinationals
here though, only small and tasteful, individual shops with some
great bargains in leather goods (handbags, belts, coats and shoes)
plus some exquisite silk scarves and handmade jewellery. Local pastas,
cheeses and olive oils were also popular purchases.
My body had adapted very quickly to the daily cycling regime and
sadly, by the end of the tour, I wasn’t really ready to stop.
I couldn’t have enjoyed a holiday more – the heady mixture
of great cycling through wonderful scenery, fabulous food and wine,
perfect weather and convivial company made for a perfect vacation.
The question is – where will the next one be?
Cardiff, Wales.
Iron Donkey Guided Bicycle Tour of Tuscany 7th – 13th
October 2005
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Group Bike Tour of Southern Tuscany, Italy
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